On the Origins of a Species of Unnatural Fur

Quick Quiz:

What's the very first thing that springs to mind when hearing the term "Princeton's Mutations?"

a) a tiger mascot with an extra tail
b) a freshman class turned hideously crimson by an evil bioengineer in Cambridge
c) a football team that beats Yale more than once per decade

None of the above! The answer, of course, is d) a faux-fur coat

Yes indeed, back in the '50s somebody thought this would be an excellent name for a high-end faux garment. Which ranks right up there with Droopy & Browns formalwear in England and Sweden's Acne Jeans as one of the most questionable marketing decisions in fashion history.

Nonetheless, Life magazine's December 5, 1955 issue, which devoted its cover and an illustrated feature to man-made mink, and had this to say about Princeton's Mutations. . .

"After four years of beaverlike work in the laboratory, an eye-fooling duplicate of a Cerulean mink stole is now available for about a fiftieth of the price of the real thing . . . . Called Princeton's Mutations, after the firm that makes it, the cloth has just been introduced in gray, brown, and taupe . . . Hopeful guys who assume that this mock mink solves their fur-for-Christmas-problems should be warned that their dolls may say, "Take back your coal-water-and-natural-gas mink!"

Etsy seller renouveauclothing has this one on offer and I think it looks great. And the label's on the inside, right?

Think Mink, Or Don't?

True confession: I've got four furs in my closet.

A full length mink, bought off a friend (who was downsizing her mink collection).

An old-school charity shop astrakhan (also known as curly lamb or karakul).

A princess-line glossy fur, sheared, possibly beaver or (gulp) seal, which I found amid a heap of garments on a wrought iron fence: "give me a tenner, love." (That's about $17).

And my favorite, this blond mink capelet owned by one Madame M. R., which I reckon was made in the early 60s, though I highly doubt manufacturer Rossellí actually had branches in Paris and Milan (just as Victoria's Secret has never had a single outlet in London.)


Anyway, I love all these furs, but only ever wear the second and third one, at best once or twice a year.

Why?

1) It never gets bone-chilling dry-cold in London like it does in Chicago or Moscow, so fur's undeniable insulation isn't as necessary here.
2) Anti-cruelty advocates are active and vocal in this town. Since I ride public transport rather than a blackout window sedan, I'd be a walking billboard for the anti-anti cruelty brigade.
3) I much prefer to flaunt under the radar than in somebody's face.

Last weekend's Sunday Times Style magazine had a trend piece claiming that vintage fur was in some way more acceptable, less vulgar, than new.

True, it is reclaiming a garment that might otherwise go into a landfill, but less vulgar? Not so sure. And of course there is the ongoing debate of whether real fur or synthetic is more environmentally friendly--though authentic vintage fur seems to come up tops in the argument.

I wonder how many others are out there in a similar circumstance: buying vintage fur because it's affordable, and gorgeous, then making a relic of it rather than have it--or ourselves, by association--misinterpreted.

I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Shag Pile, Chanel Style

Was thumbing through this month's Tatler, a publication whose faux-condescending chronicles of conspicuous consumption makes me alternately love it/want to set it on fire.

I felt equally bipolar about this incredible shot on its fashion pages (photo Jamie Brunskill, stylist Hannah Teare, model Edie Campbell). The dress is from Chanel, which has pulled out the stops with the silk crepe, fur and sequins, to awesome effect. If I had a spare £24,235 ($39,930), I'd buy it, and wear it into the great beyond, because even Satan would have to stop to stare at this frockapalooza of a dress.






But I don't. So instead, thinking hard about what I love most, and deciding it's those long furry cuffs (probably goathair); I'd have a cruise around eBay, keying in "fur cuffs", and turn up something like this, above, which sold for a deservedly high price yesterday, or this very cute (and far more wearable than either) ski sweater, left.

Tip: if you are wearing a top or dress with this sort of cuff drama, don't order the soup.