Showing posts with label boyfriend jacket. Show all posts
Showing posts with label boyfriend jacket. Show all posts

Friday, September 25, 2009

Weeklong Style Seminar: How to Style a Boyfriend Jacket, Part 5


Here's the last in this weeklong series of ways to wear a boyfriend jacket, as demonstrated by fashion-savvy eBay vendors (see entries below for more).

A lot of interesting takeaways in this shot . . .

1) True fact: jackets with formal decorative motifs can look a bit naff/dorky if worn as they were back in the 80s and 90s. For example, if it were teamed with a black dress trousers and modest heels, this tux jacket is one your auntie might put on for dinner and a show in the city. But with a slouchy tee, skinnies, black fedora and studded sandals, the jacket, with its ladylike good manners, is slumming it in the best possible way.

2) Black and navy is one of the most elegant color combos going. The dark-blue tee here is so much more interesting than a plain white one would be.

3) You can show a really deep slice of torso if most of the rest is covered with a slouchy jacket.

4) Ordinarily I detest tie-dye--when I see it, I reflexively think of vomit, which is not a reaction you want to inspire in a passer-by. But these black-grey jeans are a different order of tie-dye. Almost like an animal print in an altered state. I love them, and might have to find a pair for myself.

5) Main point! Here again, as in the entries below, the jacket's button is a key linkup element for the whole outfit. The diamante shape chimes with the etched look on the jeans, and the glimmery studs on the shoes.

If you're not a huge fan of the boyfriend blazer, thanks for your patience this week! Back to usual business on Monday with features on barkcloth, bizarre prints, and more . . .

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Weeklong Style Seminar: How to Style a Boyfriend Jacket, Part 4


Adorable, no? The blazer's styling is simple, subtle, 100% right.

The little round hat balances those ultrabroad shoulders to perfection. And more: see how the ivory band around the brim exactly matches the dark/light contrast in the buttons. Brilliant!

I also love how this vendor has left off any other accessories. A hat is such a punchy addition to an outfit that it's often best to leave it all on its own.

Unlike other stylings from earlier this week (see entries below), these proportions would scale up brilliantly. Jacket to the thigh, black leggings in a substantial weave, great heels to take a look borrowed from the 80s into right now.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

How to Buy a Vintage Boyfriend Jacket

All the glossy fashion mags now blanket the front of their books with photocollages of "the trends you should be wearing". Quite frankly, these give me a headache. Too many items, too many decimal points on the price tags, too much information, period.

But, when two ultra-savvy fashion journalists provide written trend forecasts, it's a different story altogether. Clare Coulson and Sarah Mower here speak the gospel on the street-level trends that stylites will be wearing through the autumn. If you care at all about such things, this is all the news you really need.

The one definite buy-in for my own wardrobe? A tailored jacket with large (but not monstrous) shoulder pads.

In trendspeak, this is known as the "boyfriend" jacket, as if you had nicked it off your man and artlessly tossed it over your Rodarte leggings before a quick shopping run down New Bond Street.

The key words being as if. Nobody can do this and look decent unless said boyfriend has exactly the same body type as you plus a Saville Row tailor, which might be the case for a few fashion model/rock star hookups but is a formula for disaster for the rest of us.

Why? Because a jacket needs to fit, even if the proportions are exaggerated. One way to ensure good fit is to buy new, off the rack, in a trend-conscious retailer.

The better (to my mind) and far cheaper (inarguable) option is to buy vintage in a shop, or, if this isn't possible, to pick up a great boyfriend jacket online, through eBay, Etsy, or one of the thousands of web vintage purveyors who might have one exactly right for you. How to do this without tears?

1) Above all, don't key in the word "boyfriend". This will direct you to vendors who sniff your trend-hunger like blood and will make you pay dearly for it. Far better to shop with the lovely, unassuming vendors who will be ever so grateful if you help them shift that old 80's jacket that nobody's wanted for several decades now.

2) By all means do key in the names of designers who built a business out of the same long-line, big-shouldered, business-y sorts of jackets that are suddenly looking so fresh again. Mondi. Escada. Tahari. Anne Klein. Austin Reed (on the Brit side). For a more severe, vampy, nipped-waist look, check out Basile, Lolita Lempicka, Gigli and, if you can find it cheap, Mugler. On the tweedy side, vintage Ralph Lauren (purple label if possible), or, less expensively, 80s Ann Taylor. If you can find anything that fits from old New York power-suit retailer Alcott & Andrews, you will have hit the jackpot, their stuff was beautiful.

3) Go for quality!! Why not? Cashmere, merino wool, mohair--all of these on the contents label tell you you're getting something special. Welt pockets are another indicator, as well as patterns (i.e. pinstriping) that matches up beautifully across seam lines.

4) Above all, look for great fit. Don't just go by size, this is deceptive. Measure a jacket you own that fits you beautifully and try to duplicate it, bearing in mind any difference in cut and drape in the jacket you seek. The key is the shoulder measure--even with larger pads, this should not be any more than half an inch wider than the shoulder seam-to-shoulder seam measure on your best-fitting jacket.

Keep looking! Don't settle! As the brilliant David Foster Wallace wrote in Infinite Jest, "Perversely, it is often more fun to want something than to actually have it."

True. But I have this jacket fresh in, Anne Klein of uncertain vintage, probably late 90s. The teardrop buttonholes are a nice detail. It's an excellent coverup for a more extroverted top, and I'm sure I'll be throwing it on again and again.

BTW, it cost £3 ($5-ish), postage included. Sometimes actually having is pretty good too.